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History: In
February 2003, the Croser family purchased Maylands Farm at Parawa
on the Southern Fleurieu Peninsula, just 8 kilometres from the Great
Southern Ocean to the South.
Maylands farm was purchased with the
specific intention of growing the finest “sea air, grass fed” prime
lambs. A review of the climate
statistics, as well as the slope geology and soil features, quickly
convinced Brian Croser that Maylands Farm provides a unique
opportunity to grow the fastidious Pinot Noir variety.
Foggy Hill is situated
at the top of the Fleurieu Peninsula, at 350 metres above sea level,
and is named for the summer and autumn fogs that frequently roll up
to the spine of the Fleurieu Peninsula from the Great Southern
Ocean. It is composed of 67 million year old ironstone, which has
generated free draining soils of adequate fertility to support
moderate vineyard capacity and low vigour vines. The climate here is
the coolest in South Australia, at 1135ºC days average heat
summation for the growing season, being cooler than Burgundy. The
maritime climate of Foggy Hill has very cool days and relatively
warm nights, which allows the vines to produce intense and fragrant
aromas and flavours at moderate alcohol levels.
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This Pinot echoes of high-quality
burgundy, generated by the thrust of the back palate,
texture of the finish and intensity of the aftertaste.
The vintage was a difficult one, and this was the first
crop, but it sent shivers down my spine.
96 Points - James Halliday May
2008. |
The North-facing slope
of Foggy Hill was chosen for the first planting of vines in this
special part of the Fleurieu Peninsula. By Christmas of 2003, 2
hectares of Foggy Hill were planted to 3 different Bernard clones of
Pinot Noir on devigorating rootstocks. The vineyard was planted with
the intention of growing the grapes for the Tapanappa partnership.
The vines are
intensively planted on very narrow rows, 1.5mx1.5m, or 4,444
vines/hectare, to allow 10cm between each shoot for maximum
ventilation warmth and light. The fruiting cane is only 500mm above
the ground to take ripening advantage of ground warmth at night. A
further 2 hectares of Pinot Noir were planted on Foggy Hill in 2006.
Dr. John Gladstones, in
his wonderful book “Viticulture and Environment”, says of the area
around Foggy Hill: “At least in climatic terms the lower Fleurieu
Peninsula has arguably the best conditions of all in mainland South
Australia for table wine production.”
In the 2007 vintage,
Tapanappa harvested the first grapes grown in the lower Fleurieu
Peninsula, Foggy Hill Pinot Noir.
Vintage Notes:
2007 was warmer than average vintage at Foggy Hill, accumulating
1249ºC days of heat during the growing season versus the average of
1135ºC days. The January to March ripening period was very dry apart
from a rain event in late January.
Perfect small bunches of
Pinot Noir were hand harvested on the 14th of April and transported
to the Petaluma winery in the Piccadilly Valley, about one hour
north of Foggy Hill.
The three clones were
destemmed, crushed and chilled in separate batches to open one tonne
fermenting tubs. The harvest analyses of the three clones were quite
similar and averaged 22.5 Brix (%sugar), pH 3.65 and total acid
6.9gpl.
Winemaking Notes:
8% of each clone was chilled as whole bunches and added to the
bottom of its clone’s fermenter. The balance of the fruit from that
particular clone was chilled to 3ºC after being destemmed and
crushed, 50ppm of SO2 was added and the must was placed on top of
the whole fruit bunches in the appropriate fermenter. The
fermentation tubs were sealed down for 4 days for a cold maceration
before being seeded with a yeast strain selected from our own
vineyards. Their own strain of malo-lactic bacteria was added at the
same time. The tubs were hand plunged morning and night for 10 days.
The fermentation on
skins lasted 10 days and at its peak of activity reached 35ºC during
a twoday period. When all of the whole fruit had been broken, and
the sugar exhausted, the tubs weresealed down for a further 7 days
on skins.
The contents of the tubs
were transferred to a small air bag press and drained and lightly
pressed to barriques without any settling. A mixture of 30% new and
70% one or two year use French oak barriques was used.
The wine was allowed to sit on lees until the malo-lactic
fermentation was complete in September of 2007, after which it was
racked and SO2 was added before the wine was returned to barrique.
Finally, after 8 months
in barrique, the wine was clear racked in late December 2007, given
a light egg white fining and was bottled without filtration in
February 2008.
The Taste Of The
Wine: Tapanappa Foggy Hill 2007 Pinot Noir is medium to light in
colour and cerise in hue. The aromas are delicate and exotically
fragrant of Campari, cherries and five-spice with a richer mulberry
component.
The flavours are
delicate sweet and spicy and are balanced against the tannin and
acid without the interference of alcohol – it is as though the wine
is built around its water component. The tannins are significant,
but soft and savoury, and the whole wine is melded into a complex
fabric of aromas, flavours, tastes and texture, which is seamless.
This the first exciting
taste of the new Pinot Noir terroir at Maylands Farm, Parawa, at the
apex of the Fleurieu Peninsula. |