Graves (pronounced Grahves) and a more particular sub-region within
Graves, Pessac-Leognan, lie just to the southwest of the city of
Bordeaux. It has been renowned for its dramatic red wines for
centuries, but in the last 50 years urban sprawl has eradicated many
of the best vineyard sites.
The two finest properties, the Haut-Brion siblings, are walled in (complete with graffiti) from a very urban setting; so much for the romance of wine country. That aside, the red Graves produced (particularly in the mini "super-appellation" of Pessac) can be fantastic.
It has an unmistakable tobacco- and cedar-scented quality with a certain sense of lightness despite the firm, cabernet-based structure. These are serious wines that show a great deal of individual character. In this, the day of the international standard of winemaking, that's saying something.
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2005, Chateau de Fieuzal "Pessac-Leognan" Grand Cru. |
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Bin No |
THOR/472 |
Size |
75cl |
Price |
£34.25 |
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Château de Fieuzal is a significant Graves property that now has a reputation for producing both red and white wines of extremely high quality. De Fieuzal was bought by Swedish-born Erik Bocké after the end of the war and he was responsible for building up the Château's reputation which culminated in it being classified as a Graves Cru Classé in 1959. His son-in-law Gérard Gribelin took over in 1974 and further modernised the property by installing stainless steel fermentation tanks and by raising the proportion of new barrels used in the maturation process. In 1994 De Fieuzal was bought by Fructivie, a French insurance company. De Fieuzal is located in the south of the Léognan commune and the 65 hectares of vineyards occupy a fine gravel ridge, which affords excellent drainage. The red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (33%), Cabernet Franc (4.5%) and Petit Verdot (2.5 %). The white is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (50%) and Sémillon (50%). This has a seriously deep, rich colour with layers of ripe and concentrated fruit and copious amounts of big, yet very fine tannins. With excellent acidity married to an overall purity of fruit this wine will develop into a joy in about 5 or 6 years. Drink 2008 to 2019. |
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2006, Château Haut-Rian 1ères Côtes de Bordeaux. |
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Bin No |
2104B06 |
Size |
75cl |
Price |
£10.35 |
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The blending for this wine is made with 65% Merlot, 25% Cabenet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet franc. Twenty-four days maceration. Maturing for several months in oak barrel. This wine is supple and well structured. Very nice fruity bouquet with a round and well balanced palate. Charming and elegant finish. |
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2006, Château de Cardaillan "Appellation Graves Controlle". |
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Bin No |
2125B06 |
Size |
75cl |
Price |
£16.50 |
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Amongst the 25 hectares of appellation Graves which makes up the vineyards of Chateau de Malle, a large part is consecrated to making Red Graves under the name of Chateau de Cardaillan. The wine has a pronounced bouquet, a lively character and is strongly reminiscent of ripe red fruit with a velvety tannic structure. It expresses all the finesse and elegance of its soil character, “terroir”, as the French put it. |
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