France - Loire Valley - Charles Joguet Chinon

The Vineyards of Chinon occupy 4,500 acres along the banks of the river Vienne. Rabelais, the great epicurean author, was born near Chinon and wrote in praise of its wines, insuring that their fame would spread. Although the vineyards suffered a period of decline in the early 20th century, modern winemaking techniques and rigorous standards have restored Chinon to its traditional place of honour.

Although there is a small amount of white Chinon made from Chenin Blanc, and some rosé, the region is best known for its red wines. These are made entirely from Cabernet Franc, locally known as the Breton.

The vineyards are planted on two different types of soil that do much to determine the style of the wine. The sand and gravel soils of the vineyards on the river's flood plains produce, light, elegant wines for early drinking. The tuffeau limestone soil of the hillsides produces full-bodied wines for long aging. These wines are often from vineyards designated as "old vines." Although aging usually takes place in barrels, little fresh oak is used, emphasizing the character of the grapes.

Lighter bodied Chinon is a perfect wine for summer drinking. It is refreshing, fruity and its acidity, the unifying characteristic of wines grown in cool climates, makes it especially appetizing when slightly chilled. Older, richer Chinon has much in common with other fine red wines. Very tannic and closed in youth, it requires several years of bottle age before realizing its potential for richness and complexity. Although the wines will start to show their best qualities after five years, they can age for decades, developing earthy aromas that, as one highly respected Chinon producer puts it, remind one of "the depths of a forest after a storm."

 

 Chinon Cuvée de la Cure 2005

 Bin No

 FMV/250

 Size

 75cl

 Price

 £12.95

Could it be a sign of the global warming that we hear so much about these days? For their vines, in any case, drought and generous sunshine have once again placed this vintage in the firmament of great Loire wines. It can already be said of the 2005, that it embodies the strength of a 1976, the finesse of a 1989, and even the legendary allure of a 1947.

The first grapes analysed on 16 September heralded a record 13 to 14.5°, as well as a somewhat high acidity level: a bit more time was needed to achieve the ideal balance. Thus, it was on 26 September that harvesting began, starting with a Clos du Chêne Vert that had reached maturity first, as is often the case. It all took place in perfectly dry and occasionally even hot weather: pure gold for the wine grower!

The important upstream work in the vines before harvesting–disbudding, green harvests and thinning out of the leaves–and an ideal climate together allowed them to finish picking the Cabernet Franc as early as 11 October, after twelve days of cutting in optimal conditions.

Having been the quickest to ferment, this vintage has the most exuberant, fruity fragrance of the vintage year. The wine is dense and the bouquet captivating. A character of small, silky tannins, on a slightly tart support, to this day, gives it a yet unknown complexity.

Drink from 2008-2009 but will keep until 2013-2014.

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