France - Provence - Chateau D’Esclans

Château d’Esclans nestles right in the heart of Provence, within the commune of Motte, the very best rosé winemaking region in the world.

d’Esclans is situated in a very privileged position, this unique and exceptional terroir took nearly 10 years to find. Just 50kms away from Saint Tropez, the vineyards stretch along the rocky Permian sand stone hillsides close to the coast, where the vines benefit from the maritime climate.

Recently renovated, the domaine is now managed by Sacha Lichine, the mastermind behind ‘Vins sans Frontiers’ and son of Alexis Lichine (former owner of Château Prieuré Lichine) whose sole purpose is producing the finest rosé.

Substantial investment in state of the art wine making and vineyard management is already bearing fruit. Château d’Esclans was recently awarded a silver medal at the ‘Rosés of the World’ competition, classifying it as the best rosé from Côtes de Provence for the 2006 vintage.

This 267-hectare domaine has only 44 hectares of the best hillside terroir under vine with the principal grapes used for rosé wines in AC Côtes de Provence Contrôlée.

The vineyards are planted 60% Grenache, of which some vines are over eighty years old. They are ideally situated on gravelly soil, which benefits from swift drainage and a remarkable southerly exposure. The balance of the cepages is 20% Mouvèdre, 20% Cinsault, Rolle and Syrah.

Winemaking is headed by Patrick Léon (previously director of wine making at Château Mouton-Rothschild for 23 years) and super consultant Michel Rolland who together have succeeded in creating a future classic and iconic wine.

Harvest is carried out by hand in the cool of the morning once the grapes have been tasted in the vineyard to judge optimum ripeness.

In the winery it is a highly selective process. Grapes are sorted twice: the first time prior to destemming, then again before light crushing, where the grapes are passed through a cold soaker to lower the temperature.

Temperature controlled vinification takes place using a combination of stainless steel and lightly toasted French oak.

 

 Whispering Angel 2006

 Bin No

 PARA/110

 Size

 75cl

 Price

 £15.50

Vineyard: Selected grapes harvested at optimum maturity. South exposure. Chalky-clay slopes.

Grape Varieties: Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre.

Vinification: Harvesting only in the morning, in small crates. Grapes are sorted manually three times. Maceration before fermentation at 10-12°C to extract aromas. Vinified in stainless-steel vats. Temperature controlled. “Bâtonnages”.

This wine has been made without barrel fermentation to keep freshness and all the fruit flavours.

Whispering Angel is well named, it is the lesser of four but it ain't in the least bit below par. No quite the contrary, it is a super wine. Very pale in colour; a hint of wood on the nose; palate is spicy in its gentle way; very good; fresh and a good length.

Antony le Ray-Cook June 2007

 

 Les Clans 2006

 Bin No

 PARA/112

 Size

 75cl

 Price

 £46.50

 Bin No

 PARA/114

 Size

 150cl

 Price

 £85.00

Vineyard: Grapes are selected from 50 to 70 years old vines. South and South-East exposure. Chalky-clay slopes.

Grape Varieties: Grenache (48% 80 years old) and Rolle. 100% free-run juice.

Vinification: Harvesting at optimum maturity (grapes are individually tasted and selected in the vineyard). Harvesting only in the morning, in small crates. Grapes are sorted manually three times. Desteming and soft crushing.

Maceration at 10-12°C to extract aromas. Only free-run juice, selected before pressing. Vinification only in demi-muids (600 liters barrels) for 6 months with burgundian style bâtonnage. Temperature controlled.

Very pale colour; nose has lots of wood but not too much; the palate is lightly spiced; long; some wood; good fresh fruits; the vanilla on the palate reminds one of Ice Cream Soda; a touch of acidity in the finish.

Methinks that this quality of Rosé will set Provence alight, the ordinary vigneron will curse and swear about the prices achieved.

Antony le Ray-Cook June 2007

 

 Garrus 2006

 Bin No

 PARA/113

 Size

 75cl

 Price

 £65.00

 Bin No

 PARA/115

 Size

 150cl

 Price

 £132.00

Vineyard: Grapes are selected from the best and oldest vines. South-East exposure. Chalky-clay slopes.

Grape Varieties: 80 years old Grenache and Rolle. 100% free-run juice.

Vinification: Harvesting at optimum maturity (grapes are individually tasted and selected in the vineyard). Harvesting only in the morning, in small crates. Grapes are sorted manually three times.

Desteming and soft crushing. Maceration at 10-12°C to extract aromas. Only free-run juice, selected before pressing. Vinification only in demi-muids (600 liters barrels) for 8 months with burgundian style bâtonnage.
Temperature controlled (12 to 16°C).

Rosé, a Thinking Man's Wine? Certainly the World’s Most Expensive Rosé.

Ah! You are thinking that the lovely pink stuff one quaffs by the pool or on the beach is hardly a wine for thought. Quite right it is not, 'tis just for enjoying without a thought; but I am talking about an amazing Rosé.

Sasha Lichine has made the first vintage of Chateau d'Esclans' Rosé (2006). There are four cuvees, Whispering Angel; Chateau d'Esclans; Les Clams; and the big grown up Garrus.

Frankly each one knocks 90% of other Rosés into a cocked hat. But Garrus is something else; it really makes one think, just as a great Burgundy does.

The colour is very pale, almost a vin gris. The nose is gentle with fresh fruits, light oak.

And boy does the palate amaze, it is fresh with a touch of oak; rich yet light; long, yes as long as the M1 it just goes on and on; a very complex palate indeed, quelle balance.

Sasha gets the wine to such a high quality and complexity by ruthless selection. It is fermented in 500 litre new French oak barrels. Only 1,600 bottles are made so rush to the best wine merchant you know and try and secure one or more. They will cost you circa 78€ a bottle.

If you are unable to get one and really want to taste this nectar, try the bar at the Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo. But rush as it is nearly all sold.

Antony le Ray-Cook June 2007

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