Rioja...

Modern vs Traditional

You could be forgiven for thinking Rioja is all about classic, oaky red wines – after all, the region does have one of the largest concentrations of oak barrels of any wine region in the world. But with winemakers constantly adapting their techniques to suit consumer tastes, modern Rioja wines are emerging, and with their fruit driven approach, they are set to win over the palates of the anti-oak brigade.

Traditional Rioja fans needn’t panic however – due to their immense popularity in the UK, the gamey, complex Rioja wines of old are set to stay on supermarket shelves. But with plantings of previously forbidden grape varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc now permitted, and the use of French oak becoming more prevalent, Rioja is seeing an emergence of intensely fruity red and white wines, clearly influenced by the New World.

So are you a modernist or a traditionalist? If you like a fresh, fruit-driven white wine, try the Rioja Gran Familia Blanco 2006. With only 15% of the wine aged in oak, this is a subtle white with delicate floral aromas that makes a perfect aperitif. If you prefer a more traditional buttery style, you’ll find the Marqués de Murrieta Capellania Reserva 2002 / Bodegas Palacio Crianza Blanco 2006, a tasty tipple, particularly with rice dishes such as paella.

The vast array of red Riojas available in the UK encompasses both modern and traditional styles. A great example of a modern Rioja is the Baron de Ley Finca Monasterio 2005, a blend made from tempranillo and various other grapes, including cabernet sauvignon, which gives a deeper colour and firmer tannins to the wine. This wine, aged in new French oak for 18 months, is a veritable fruit fest, with intense blackcurrant flavours, a vanilla smokiness and a perfume of violets. For a more familiar favourite, try the Marqués de Cáceres Gran Reserva 2001. Aged in both French and American oak, with its trademark leathery complexity, soft tannins and cinnamon-spice flavours, it is an ideal accompaniment to a traditional roast lamb dinner – even better with rosemary potatoes.