Where the Deuro is about to become the Douro and Spain cedes to Portugal, we find the arid forthright vineyards of Toro, its evocative name not inappropriate given the rugged terrain and the power of the wines.

The Pintia vineyard is strewn with poppies and pudding stones; one could almost be in Châteauneuf Du Pape here, were it not for the distinctive subsoil of red clay. The stewardship of Vega Sicilia has brought expertise and investment, but the character has not been lost.

Tempranillo is known as Tinta de Toro in these parts of Spain; with 50 years of age, these vines have had to dig deep to nourish and moisten the wines in the brutal heat of 2005.

The wine has been aged for 23 months in new oak ( 70% French, 30% American); its haunting aromas of violets, plums and charcuterie almost remind me of Quinta Do Vesuvio ( not that far away after all); then on the palate dark brooding fruits, liquorice, tar and undergrowth; balancing acidity and robust but not astringent tannins. One for the longer term certainly; one to watch without any doubt at all.