COUNTRY/REGION: France/Burgundy/Cote de Beaune.
GRAPES: 100% Chardonnay.
Like its red counterpart, the 2017 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Clos de la Croix de Pierre Blanc (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is very promising, revealing notes of white flowers, ripe citrus fruit, beeswax and subtle new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and nicely layered, with a sappy core of fruit, bright acids and a long, mineral finish.
Jadot's Frédéric Barnier is pleased with his 2017 portfolio. It's a good white vintage, he says, neither over nor underripe, and in some instances—as is the norm at this address—malolactic fermentation was blocked to retain additional freshness. The reds, he says, have gained immensely with élevage, taking on depth and dimension that they initially seemed to lack after their comparatively precocious malolactic fermentations concluded. Winemaking here is something of a constant: destemmed grapes, wooden fermentation vessels with minimal temperature control and punching down, long cuvaisons and maturation in oak barrels—of which one-third are new, one-third are once-used and one-third are twice-used. Whites are direct pressed, fermented and matured in barrels. The result is a long-lived, muscular style that ages very well indeed, and there is no doubt that this is one of the finest négociant houses—not just in terms of quality, but also in terms of consistency. My notes parse the portfolio, identifying particular high points, but even taken as a whole Barnier and his team have every right to be pleased with a very good 2017 collection in both red and white. Some of Jadot's successful 2016s are also revisited here, with more to come in the near future. Readers will also note that the different domaine sources and maison wines are now more clearly distinguished in the Wine Advocate's database nomenclature.